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- ENVIRONMENT, Page 73The Battle in the Bush
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- Bill Woodley killed his first elephant at 16. By 19 he had shot
- 150 tuskers and lived as a professional ivory hunter. Today, at 60,
- he is the elephant's staunchest protector, leading the desperate
- war against poachers in Kenya's Tsavo National Park. "They say once
- an elephant hunter, always an elephant hunter," says Woodley. "But
- I've spent the past 41 years hunting poachers." The difference, he
- observes wryly, is that "poachers shoot back."
-
- Tsavo, the country's largest wildlife reserve, was once the
- grandest elephant sanctuary in Kenya. Now it is a case study of
- what has gone wrong -- and how the elephant may yet be saved. Tsavo
- stretches over 8,000 sq. mi., an area the size of Israel. In the
- mid-1960s, 40,000 elephants thundered amid the scrub thorn, acacia
- and baobob trees. Last year's aerial survey spotted only 5,363 live
- elephants in and around the park, and 2,421 carcasses. The
- survivors are skittish creatures, often clustered in fear and quick
- to flee at the scent of man.
-
- Years ago, Wakamba tribesmen poached in Tsavo, using arrows
- tipped with poison. Now Somali gangs, including many former
- soldiers, spray whole families of elephants with automatic-weapon
- fire. Not all Tsavo's poachers have been outsiders to the park.
- Some who are paid to protect the elephants -- wardens and rangers
- -- are also suspect. The evidence: Woodley and others have
- extracted .303-cal. bullets from carcasses. "The only people who
- use .303s are the rangers," he says. Numerous carcasses have been
- found near the rangers' headquarters. And when the park's patrol
- plane is grounded for inspection, the poachers quickly appear.
- Someone has tipped them off. Corruption is hard to eradicate, since
- rangers' salaries run as low as $90 a month. "It was policy not to
- interfere with departmental poaching," says an assistant warden.
-
- Now Kenya is striking back. In his breast pocket, Woodley has
- an envelope stuffed with 30,000 Kenyan shillings ($1,428) -- money
- for informants. The antipoaching units are exchanging their World
- War I bolt-action rifles for automatic assault weapons. Within the
- past year the APUs have killed 18 poachers under a shoot-to-kill
- order. Dozens of senior wildlife-department personnel have been
- interrogated, and some have been relieved of their duties. These
- measures seem to be working. In the past month not one fresh
- carcass has been found. "Everyone is keen as mustard," says
- Woodley, beaming. "We'll win for sure." It is too early, though,
- to declare victory. After a similar crackdown in 1978, the price
- of ivory soared and poaching resumed.
-
- In July, Kenya's President, Daniel arap Moi, set ablaze a
- twelve-ton mountain of illicit ivory -- 3,000 tusks worth $3
- million. To those familiar with the plundering of Kenya's herds and
- the corruption in its wildlife department, the fire was a kind of
- exorcism. "If we go wrong here, hope will be lost in many parts of
- this continent," says Richard Leakey, who became head of the
- department in April. "If we go right here, there is a chance for
- things to happen elsewhere much more rapidly than any of us would
- have dared to believe."